In their book “Mazatlan a dos Voces” (Mazatlan in two Voices), Alfredo Ibarra Rodríguez [born December 1903] and Héctor R. Olea Castaños, write about a time in which parents, taking their children by the hand not to lose them in the crowd, strolled the narrow sidewalks downtown Mazatlan, while mazatlecos (as locals call themselves) sitting on chairs or rockers outside their homes, talking to neighbors or those stopping to say hi, watched the coming and going of pedestrians. Back in those days —the authors point out— a respectable person was obliged to greet or answer a greeting as part of the accustomed courtesy code. This good habit still exists among mazatlecos, people who show their warmth and upbeat frankness in whatever circumstances.
While strolling down the clean streets of its Historic Center, I was able to attest that sidewalks are just as described by the writers, some of the possible scenes of those days started to fill my thoughts.
The more you know about the history of Mazatlan, the better you can perceive the value of each of the buildings that form its Historic Center, and the more you want to further examine them, expecting them to reveal different historic moments and facets of the lives of all those who took part in a great society, influenced by rich and diverse cultures, which gave life to an era of enormous commercial trade bringing progress to the region and significantly influencing the economy of the whole country.
It is said that everything in life comes by in cycles. And that in some cases, when one ends you come back to the starting position, it is then that based on new experiences, you can start a new cycle to ―in a different context― faithfully repeat the story, or create a totally different one.
Upon observing the continuous restoration work of the Historic Center [a World Cultural Heritage Site], you can tell from the great display of Mazatlan’s cultural wealth ―for a long time dormant― that it represents the present commitment, through an ambitious project, to initiate a new cycle where history is starting to be recorded, driving the city’s development towards social, cultural, touristic and real estate latitudes maybe never before imagined.
Continuing our tour….
• La Mansión de Los Paredes [Los Paredes Mansión]
Located on Venustiano Carranza street, just a few steps from the Casa de la Cultura de Sinaloa (Sinaloa House of Culture), this imposing two-story building is one of the largest found in the Centro Histórico.
This mansion’s construction ended in 1907; it belonged to politician and mining investor Don Antonio H. Paredes. Its architectural style is eclectic, definitely European, and somewhat countering the predominant style of those days in Mazatlan since its design was conceived by a young French architecture student, a fellow of Mr. Paredes’ son at the University of Michigan.
The house has spacious basements, a peculiarity not shared by the other antique houses in the city. It also includes Neo-Classic and French Baroque details and finishes, that contribute to give this structure an impressive beauty. Besides its imposing size, the mansion stands out because of its finish and the materials involved; aspects that make it an authentic architectural jewel. The moldings on its ceilings and gorgeous balustrades, the carved, main gate and its Ionic and Doric-style columns are worthy of admiration and awe.
The main entrance is arrived to by means of a stairway covered by a porch with a small balcony on top of it, inviting to relax. The detail and ornaments on the upper windows are simply exquisite.
During the military siege of Mazatlan by the revolutionary forces in the year of 1914, the Paredes family abandoned the city and the house was requisitioned to serve as military quarters.
• La Casa Hidalgo o Casa de La Cultura [The Casa Hidalgo or House of Culture]
This house was built towards the end of the XIX century by the Hidalgo Family who, during that time, besides having invested in real estate and owning several steamboats, were the owners of the hardware store and the largest building materials warehouse in the city.
This beautiful building was completed by 1896 and functioned as the headquarters for the company’s businesses, which were forced to stop during the times of the revolution. From then on the facility has served for various purposes. For some time it housed government offices at the federal level. In 1980 the government bought it in order to install there the House of Culture. Its beautiful windows and garden at front, with its wrought-iron benches, give the architectural complex an unequaled ambience and grandiosity.
The restoration work was excellent and adhering to the original design, as a result, all kinds of exhibits and cultural activities in general can be presented there.
• Casa de los Echeguren [House of the Echegurens]
During century XIX no one arrived at having the fortune, social and political prominence as the Echeguren family did. The family’s patriarch, Don Martín Echeguren, of Spanish origin, was a rich trader, owner of mines, ships, banks, the largest smelting plant in the country, textile plants and countless urban properties.
This one-story property was built in 1870 and it features a very sober architectural style. Its interiors were wide and grandiose, so much that for a long time it served as a private hospital and as a state office for tax collections and the transit authority.
After the death of Don Martín Echeguren in 1876; his widow, Doña Concepción Moreno, devastated by sadness, decided to change her place of residence to the City of Paris, France, where her beautiful and charming mazatleco-origin daughters in time married the Count Mayol de Lupé, the Viscount de Chollet and the Baron de Dampierre, noble Frenchmen belonging to the highest aristocracy.
• Casa de José Vicente de la Vega [House of José Vicente de la Vega]
This property located on the corner of the streets Constitución and Niños Héroes, is one of the most antique of Mazatlan, according to the registries available this house was built in 1837. One of the main features of this property is that, counter to what was being built in those times, it has low-height ceilings and the six rooms facing Constitución Street, have individual balconies, whereas those facing Niños Héroes Street share a single all-encompassing balcony as was the general practice. It is said that this was mainly due to the house maidens being of marrying age, and in order to please them, the owner of the house had a balcony built to every room so they could chat with their boyfriends.
The adjacent one-story house on Niños Héroes Street has the same architectural features; it is therefore presumed that is was once part of the main building.
With the passing of years Mr. De la Vega —the owner of the house— faced some legal problems that made him suddenly disappear, getting rid of all his investments in the city and fleeing the city with his family to the state of California in a steamship especially chartered to that effect, as it was the only means to transport a huge amount of boxes filled with gold and silver. Mr. De la Vega would never return to Mazatlan and died amidst strange circumstances; he left a fortune calculated in 400,000 dollars, which, in those times, was equivalent to the whole budget of a smaller Central-American country.
• Edificio de los Reynaud [Reynaud Building]
This beautiful and magnificent building, located on what was Principal Street and now carries the name of Belisario Domínguez; stands out for having a well-achieved, impressive architectural design. Originally this space is where Don Germán Bastón’s famous Mercería Francesa used to operate in 1847.
Unfortunately this commercial store went bankrupt and was forced to close its doors in 1990. Don Luis Reynaud, one of the associates of this company took advantage of this situation to acquire the facility. This individual was already a rich trader on his own merit and for many years was the French consulate to Mazatlan.
In the period between 1904 and 1906, this prestigious entrepreneur ordered the construction of the building. Some of the construction’s details deserve to be admired, like the upper floor of a grandiose architectural design; at first glance you can tell the frames of doors and windows received much more elaborate and complicated attention; the same goes for its balconies and cornices topping the building’s attic.
You can still admire some hand-painted, blue and yellow tiles of probable Spanish origin. The back of the building has a different architectural style, maybe because this part of the building was destined to serve as an abode for Mr. Reynaud’s numerous family. One can still delight one’s sight observing the profusely decorated windows with “Talavera de la Reina” style blue and yellow tiles, brought expressly from Spain. One should not overlook the second floor’s balconies, made of wood, as well as the clay-tile covered sheds protecting the inner rooms from the scorching sun; all of these quite rare architectural details in the buildings of that period.
Mazatlán‘s Historic Center and its impressive colorfulness are presently an open book displaying with absolute clarity the splendor of a magnificent era in the life of the port; a theme that by itself captures the attention of visitors as well as national and international investors.
The properties of the downtown area are attracting the eyes of potential buyers like never before, they are interested, besides their rising added value, in preserving and enjoying —not the past— but the essence that in the past inspired a people to surge forward amidst adversity to become a global business center that today has, in its own right, the privilege of reemerging to be observed, admired, recognized and enjoyed by the world. Email to a friend
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