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Mazatlan's Historic Center - Part I
By Jesús de Avila • Let's Go2Mazatlan News | Translation by Eduardo Rincón-Gallardo · June 2008

Among all touristic destinations in the Mexican Pacific Coast, Mazatlan is the only one where visitors have the opportunity to stroll the streets and alleys that are living paths to a tour of its past historic grandeur that shows in the architecture of its majestic and intriguing buildings, living testimony of the history of life in Mazatlan and its wonderful people.

Mazatlan’s chronicles tell about the XIX century, when the ports of San Francisco, California; Valparaíso, in Chile; and Mazatlan, in México; were the most prominent along the pacific coast. At the start of the 1800’s, thanks to the mining activities near the port, the equipment  and provisions’ requirements for its development and the fact that the Spanish Courts had decreed the opening of Mazatlan to international commerce; the port became the gate to all types of merchandises coming from Europe and the Orient. Back in those days it was common to receive over sixty calls a year by various sailing vessels, frigates and sloops, that after a perilous four to five month cruise around Cape Horn or across the Pacific Ocean, arrived loaded with very diverse products of French, Spanish or Oriental origin.

As a consequence of this activity, Mazatlan in a short time became the main purveyor of the most important states of the Mexican Republic. The port’s commercial success attracted the attention of Europeans ―mainly German, French and Spanish― who established their commercial firms and amassed great fortunes under the shelter of Mazatlan’s growth. The prosperity it enjoyed from 1830 to 1913 brought about a huge development in the port attracting the establishment of factories of cigarettes, cigars, matches, soap, beer, carriages, candles, shoes, ice and the largest smelting facility in the country. All of this abundance showed through the regal constructions of eclectic, neo-classic, and baroque styles that over time, gave form to what is now known internationally as the “Centro Histórico de Mazatlan” (or Mazatlán’s historic center), a cultural heritage of humanity.

Mazatlan is the only destination on Mexico’s Pacific Coast that every year brings more travelers in search of an authentic cultural exchange with our origins, and in Mazatlan’s historic center, the port offers those who visit it, an opportunity to connect with a grandeur that, although it seemed dormant through many years, it now transcends, and with the efforts of its people, has begun to rebound and to illuminate the life of the most important cultural and beach destination of Mexico’s western coast. The buildings that form Mazatlan’s historic center are now undoubtedly a high-value real estate asset calling on the attention of investors and retirees willing to invest in the restoration of neighboring houses and buildings.

Here is a brief review of each of the main buildings and/or antique sites that, according to the City Hall’s information, form the classically charming and renovated historic center of Mazatlan:

• Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción [Immaculate Birth Catedral]

In was in 1855 that the first steps were taken to build this majestic cathedral, it took several decades of works before it could be completed. During the year of 1875, thanks to the efforts and drive of Father Miguel Lacarra, the pace of construction accelerated achieving the completion of the building’s main body by the beginning of 1880.

This cathedral’s construction was made possible thanks to economic contributions aplenty by the city’s main catholic entrepreneurs and industrialists. One of the most outstanding benefactors during this stage was Don Pedro Echeguren y de la Quintana, a native of the city of San Sebastián, in Spain, who was one of the wealthiest men in the region, owner of the rich mines of “Guadalupe de los Reyes", as well as of the Fábrica de Hilados y Tejidos (Thread and Tissue Factory), the water Purveyor and an infinite number of villas and urban lots.

The imposing cathedral was designed and built by Mr. Estanislao León, who died during the final stage of its construction. The splendid towers were started in 1893, the first one was completed on April 6, 1894, and the second one a few months later. These towers were originally designed by the eminent constructor Natividad González, who never got to finish them due to a sour disagreement with parish priest, Father García.

Despite its eclectic architectural design, its interior and exterior are a well-achieved combination of Moorish and Gothic styles, resembling the architectural style used in the cathedrals of Bordeaux, Toledo, Sigüenza and the Mosque of Córdoba.

• Teatro Ángela Peralta [Ángela Peralta Theater]

The lot where the theater was built was acquired in 1869 by Mr. Manuel Rubio, who obtained all the necessary permits for its construction on that very same year. Theconstruction began under the direction of the eminent architect Andrés L. Tapia, though the unexpected death of Mr. Rubio —the steamship he boarded to Europe sank during a strong storm in the North Atlantic— paralyzed the Works for a period of time.

Mr. Rubio’s widow carried on with the construction, allowing the theater to be inaugurated on the 14 of February, 1874 in a lavish celebration with the presence of the highest military, religious, social and political personalities.

With the passing of the years the theater was also used to house patriotic festivities and box matches. In regards to its architectural style, its façade has five classic columns in its lower floor and beautiful art-evoking ornaments in its upper part. Through a covered foyer, visitors access an open-air foyer, this is quite odd, as these spaces in theaters throughout the world are covered, though considering Mazatlan’s humid weather, this peculiarity becomes a great comfort while you wait to enter the theater’s seating area. The main entrance is located at the end of this foyer and is defined by a façade decorated by elegant plaster foliage ornaments, two large windows and their balconies and a handsome cedar gate showing you in. Flanking the gate is the entrance to the upper floor where one can admire a photographic exhibition of the theater’s history.

The theater’s interior ornaments are grandiose; there is a seating area and three levels of balconies with splendid forged-iron banisters. The complex’s capacity is eight-hundred and forty comfortably seated spectators; this could appear to be insufficient, though it was just right for the time of its construction when the population of Mazatlan did not exceed ten-thousand inhabitants. 

The theater was built including the best and latest light and sound equipment and electronic sound systems for its operation. The Angela Peralta Theater is considered the best theater of western Mexico and its management is now under the responsibility of the City Hall. 

• Plazuela Machado

The Plazuela Machado is one of the oldest plazas in the City of Mazatlan; historic registry indicates that it was built in the year of 1837, under the auspices of a wealthy silver, textiles and pearls merchant, his name was Don Juan Nepomuceno Machado.

The epoch’s chronicles mention that this rich merchant, upon realizing that the construction of the “Olas Altas” dyke during 1832, had won great extensions of land from the ocean; had the foresight to acquire the lot that he would later donate to the city under the condition that a public plaza should be built there.

The plaza was originally set on a flat piece of land and was consequently encircled by thirty-six majestic stone benches and lush orange trees. Due to the above, for a long time the place was known as El Paseo de los Naranjos (The Orange-Trees Promenade). The plaza was simultaneously surrounded by the largest and most important commercial buildings of the time as well as the majestic residences of wealthy German, Spanish and French merchants.

The Plazuela Machado was (and continues to be) the path to cross for those wishing to visit the Angela Peralta Theater; the high-end restaurants and hotels or the social clubs such as, El Unión, El Alemán, El Español, Casino Mazatlan, which were located around it; these places were famous for the well attended dances and events that used to take place there.

During 1881 it underwent refurbishment works and the opportunity to add the beautiful gazebo it presently has. The Plazuela Machado is nowadays the heart of the historic center of Mazatlan and the preferred place for all those who love to stroll, chat and enjoy the arts. Surrounding it there are coffee-shops and restaurants where visitors and locals alike get together to share and partake with the bohemian community of the port.

The Plazuela Machado is also one of the sites of the Carnival Festivities; a yearly gastronomic sample is celebrated there with the participation of all the best restaurants and those who better represent the locality. The plaza also regularly houses paintings’ exhibitions, book fairs as well as other cultural and political expressions.

In order to maintain their original architectural features and to also make them more attractive and functional, the plaza and surrounding buildings are in the process of being rescued and refurbished.

• Plazuela República  (Republic Plaza) 

Located at the center of the city, this is the main plaza, surrounded by the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Birth Cathedral), the Palacio Municipal (City hall) and the telegraph and post office central buildings.

This plaza was built in 1870 on land that used to house the city market, known as "mercado viejo", or Old Market, which really was an esplanade surrounded by countless bars, shops, food and fruits and vegetables’ stands; it was known in those days as the place where you did not want to be. According to chronicles of the times, the market was a series of bunched-up stands, built from the most diverse materials and located on a level lower to that of the esplanade; they were therefore flooded during the rainy season and a cause of hygienic concern.

Intending to improve its urban aspect, a group of Germanic-origin merchants, associated to the well known Casa Melchers; decided to embark on the task of building here a beautiful plaza with welcoming granite benches, a clearly French-style gazebo with well-groomed gardens and lush trees. With the passage of time the plaza has undergone several modifications, among them the exchange of the granite benches for forged-iron ones; the construction of small pergolas and an esplanade connecting it with the City Hall.

In present days the Plaza República houses a small restaurant at the base of the gazebo and artistic festivals are held every Sunday. It is one of the most visited places of the historic center where retirees, students, tourists and the unemployed converge. The plaza is also seen as a place to relax while you watch the world go by or read today’s paper while your shoes are shined (there is a shoe-shine boy at approximately every six feet).

• Edificio del Banco de Londres y México (London-Mexico Bank Building) 

This beautiful and well-preserved two-story building located on Constitución Street, just a block away from the gorgeous Paseo Olas Altas, was built at the beginning of 1910 to house the offices of what was one of the country’s most important banking institutions, it bore the name of: Banco de Londres y México. Due to the financial problems rising from the 1910’s revolution whirlwind, the bank was forced to leave the city in 1914 and concentrated its operations in the country’s capital.

The building was closed for a very long time and finally, during General Plutarco Elías Calles regime as President of Mexico, he founded the Bank of Mexico and so came the decision to fit this building out to function as the regional office of the Central Bank. They were there for many years until the time when the Banco de Mexico built a new and modern looking building on the other side of the street, they decided to sell the old building to the Compañía Servicio Panamericano de Protección, a company that specializes in the custody and transportation of valuables.

The building features a splendid entry on its corner portal, an architectural practice quite frequent in that era’s buildings, serving to give it its majestic looks. Its gate is flanked by two columns supporting the imposing central balcony. The lower front of the building is richly covered with limestone as well as the balconies and window frames of the upper floor, giving the building an air of sobriety and Porfiriana (characteristic of President Porfirio Díaz’s 30-year presidential regime) elegance.

• Casa Municipal de las Artes (Municipal Arts House)

This building was completed in two stages; during the first stage there was only the ground level housing for many years “The Inn” (1840), curiously named then “Bank”, maybe because that was the American or British owner’s last name.

The building was later bought over by theater-entrepreneur Don Manuel Rubio; who added another floor in 1873 converting it into the “Hotel Iturbide”, the most luxurious hotel of its time. One of the best known anecdotes of the hotel was that it once hosted famous opera singer Angela Peralta’s (Ruiseñor Mexicano, the Mexican Nightingale) theater company. The diva arrived to the city on the ship “Newbern” and performed at the Teatro Rubio, located beside the hotel, the theater now bears her name.

At the beginning of 1880 it no longer functioned as a hotel as it became the preferred refuge of the finest of the city’s aristocracy. Those who attended the Casino Mazatlan ―which in a short time became the most exclusive social center of the port— were members of a privileged caste. To belong to this club, one had to, besides owning a lot of money, be chosen by a “council of notables” whose decision was uncontestable. The chronicles speak of a parquet floor inlaid with Austrian-imported teak-wood and decorated with enormous Venetian mirrors; Bohemian crystal candelabra; heavy French silk-embroidered curtains and regal furniture of finely carved precious woods.

The gala-dances celebrating the New Year and the Carnival made history and were widely renowned throughout the Mexican Pacific coastline. Within the glamour of the times, the menus of the banquets had to be printed in French.

The opulent casino saw its better days end with the revolution of 1910. The revolutionaries’ looting in 1914 in addition to the rich families fleeing the city prevented the casino from coming back to life.

In times of the revolution the building housed the famous Roher Saloon, which opened its doors in 1909 and was the stage for frequent fist and gunfights among its rowdy guests. Later it hosted the “Café de París” which came to be the best restaurant in the city during the “Fabulous 20's". Its most recent uses were a tortilla factory, warehouse and workshop for the famous "pulmonías" (literally pneumonias), the most popular and characteristic open-air means of transportation in town.

Since the local government reached an agreement with the owners who resided in Spain; this majestic building has been totally restored to presently house the Casa Municipal de las Artes, or Municipal Arts House; an institution where students of all ages are given courses on painting, sculpting, ballet and modern dancing by expert teachers.

• Casa de la Cultura del Bachiller [Antigua Casa de la Minera Pánuco]

This building is located in front of the Plazuela Hidalgo and is a clear example of the double-purpose constructions. The first floor was dedicated to commercial activities and the second floor served for the lodging of owners or managers.

This building was erected and fit out to house the offices of the Compañía Minera de Pánuco (Pánuco Mining House); this company operated the richest silver mine of the southern part of the state. These mines were discovered in 1750 by Francisco Javier de Vizcarra, whom the King of Spain would confer the title of Marquis of Pánuco, due to the wealth and power he managed to attain.

For many years the ground level functioned as an office and warehouse to hold the silver bars waiting to be embarked to Europe. The upper floor was usually occupied by the president of the company, who simultaneously was the resident associate in the “City of Babel’s Tower” an enormous warehouse that was also part of the mining company.

The facility was built in 1850; it underwent remodeling in 1880 that is maintained up to date. On the upper façade you can admire its five very large windows and a very original forged iron balcony running all alongside featuring an excellent design. The original doors were worn down by time and the elements and consequently substituted by large aluminum windows that presently disagree with the harmonious beauty of the original building.

It should be noted out that among the distinctions favoring this building is the fact that for a long time it was the only one featuring an elevator.

•  Edificio de la Aduana [Customs Building]

From the time when the customs offices were moved from the town of Villa Unión to the Port of Mazatlan in the year of 1828, it became evident that a well-equipped and well–located building was needed. For the above reasons and with the federal and state support and authorizations, this imposing construction was built and inaugurated in 1842 by the state governor and high military chiefs, in the presence of the port’s main merchants.

This building draws its character from the neo-classic style of its gate’s portal, with two Doric columns supporting a cornice that holds a triangle-shaped half-roof. Ornaments alluding to the maritime purpose of the building can be admired; its spacious, rectangular windows follow the trend of the times.

Inside, the offices are located surrounding a large and wide central patio; they are interconnected by a hall from which you can observe a central garden. The building was recently restored inside and out with great respect to the original style to the minimal detail.

• Capilla de San José [Saint Joseph’s Chapel]

The small temple to Saint Joseph is the city’s oldest religious edification and it bears the merit of still standing and maintaining its original design and features. The exact date when this temple was built cannot be determined accurately, though there is some consensus among city historians that construction began in 1837 and it took five years for its final and total completion.

Its smallness in size – if you compare it to other contemporary or later catholic temples - is mainly due to Mazatlan’s population of not even 4000 inhabitants back then, and the fact that many of those inhabitants were foreign and had different religious beliefs.

The Franciscan-style temple is located at the foot of the La Nevería hill, its construction rests on a very high platform, reached by steep stone stairways. Its atrium is way too large for a parish its size and only has a low-rise tower. Its façade is notorious for its deprivation of decorations apart from those on the gate and the choir’s window. In front of the church you can find gorgeous antique homes framing the parish’s surroundings and making us feel we are visiting a glorious past. Email to a friend

Let’s Go2Mazatlan News
E-mail: go2staff@go2mexico.com
Sources: Ayuntamiento Municipal de Mazatlán Sinaloa

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